Thursday, June 7, 2012

Guamanian Diaries, Pt 1

Apparently everyone thinks I'm Spider-man. The little kid I was sitting next to on the plane from Tokyo to Guam smiled to himself, bringing his fist to his mouth. "Mom," he almost whispered, "he looks like Spider-man."

"Ha. You're right," she said. "What's his name in the movies?"

"Peter Parker" I answered.

She ticked her little boy, "You are sitting next to Spider-man! You are sitting next to Peter Parker!" He giggled.

This woman and her son were from where I was going: Guam. A sunny little island in the Pacific Ocean roughly epicenter between Hawaii and the Philippines. Owned by the U.S. government since 1898 where it was taken after her victory in the Spanish-American War, it was invaded by the Japanese the day after Pearl Harbor. However, that was not to last either. Guam is a fascinating mix of cultures: indigenous peoples, Spanish food and religion, and American in nationality which combine to make the Chamorros. It is also very close to the Marianas Trench, the deepest part of the ocean in the world. Apparently this is where James Cameron set up shop when he decided to go down there alone--if only I knew. While touring one of the malls here, a gift shop garishly proclaimed "Guam, where America begins its day". And it's true. "Hafa Adai, Sun! America wants to give you a firm handshake and see you on your way!"

The first thing I noticed stepping off the plane was the weight of the air. In fact, it gave me an almost immediate high. As I was talking to Domestics, I seemed to be floating out of my head, watching the scene from somewhere else. It must have been a mixture of not really talking to anyone for several hours, being low on sleep, and blown over by the hot, heavy air. But there I was, in Guam, my destination for the past six months. And here I am, on my computer, with this background behind me.

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This place is beautiful! Huge bugs, almost bird-sized, hover above tropical plants, tiny lizards swarm over the grass, and there sits the ocean, that great mystery which had avoided my view during the trip over, sitting right behind me. As I touch my skin, my hair, or the screen of my various electronics, I feel wetter. I was unprepared for the sauna-like quality of the atmosphere here. After passing quickly through domestics, where the man asked if I was okay and why I went through non-US residents instead of US-residents, I waited for at least 30 minutes waiting for my luggage to fall from above. Something had happened, and everything was stuck. Of course, me being me, I was slightly on edge worrying about losing it over the 22 hour trip which included four different transit stops. But it came.

I was more adjusted to the humidity by the time I met my great aunt and uncle who were picking me up from the airport. They took me back to where I would be staying for two months. It's frankly awesome. Two bedrooms, a sweet bathroom, a kitchen, and nice living room with a great view of the city and ocean--I honestly couldn't ask for more. Well, I could, but in the end I wouldn't want it. (Who needs a swimming pool when the ocean is so close?)

The next few days I started my job, working for my uncle. It usually requires me to go into a back room and match numbers on a sheet of paper with a box shoved somewhere on the shelves. It's hot back there (better since they gave me a fan), the floor is covered in dead cockroaches and worm-things, and I almost put my hand in a mouse trap. It's not fun, but it's easy. I would like to be challenged more, but I think it will be easy to romanticize later.

Guam truly is a fascinating place. My Great Uncle and I stopped by a World War II history museum after he showed me where he was stationed while in the military and some of the places where the battles took place. Here is a view from above where the Americans stormed the beach to retake the island.

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Almost 2000 Americans lost their lives in bringing this small island back to the U.S.'s hands. Upon surveying the museum I came across several old military vehicles. There were pictures of the Americans and Japanese which were found across the island. There were weapons, artillery, and bombs (I don't know if that is redundant or not).

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Being in Guam, though technically part of America, has made me appreciate the States more. I love that silly country full of silly people who are always running around doing stupid stuff. It's so hectic there--hectic and beautiful. And this is coming from someone who grew up in Montana. Well America, by leaving you, I love you. I appreciate you much more. So there you go...

Later in the week we drove around the island and I was introduced to the various villages: Agat, Umatac, Merizo, Inarajan, and Talofofo. To utilize the class that I am still posting blogs on (I know right?), I'll create a simple memory palace to remember them. I enter my room back in Billings. On the blue chair to the right is a massive stone agate. I walk forward and step on a matt that says "you" on it. I look to my left by my TV and see a Zebra laughing--a 'merry zoo'. By my bed is an Indian woman named Jan--Jan in the Raj. and lastly, a television is sitting under covers with a dog on its screen (tele-foofoo). Anyway.

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We checked out a small marina (if that's right). Here are few pictures of me and my friend, Rob, and a baby coconut.

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A bridge constructed by the Spanish so long ago. It is being renovated:

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We stopped the car a few times and got some great views. The second location is a Vietnam War Memorial:

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In Umatac Bay I saw where Ferdinand Magellan first landed on Umatac Beach. We stood overlooking it next to a 16th century stone Spanish fort, Fort Soledad, and a topless man with a Mohawk was giving out free cow rides (they have a different name, but I can't remember). I was tempted but didn't partake. Too many mysteries being explored for one day. Oddly, when you look at some of the pictures I have taken and imagine a lot of birds cheeping, you would be wrong. There are few birds on the island because, according to my great uncle, they get blown away when typhoons hit. It turns out the real reason is because snakes eat their eggs. It's surprising, but I miss their cheeping. What they do have is a lot of free-range chickens that stroll around like they own the place. Every morning I hear them cock-a-doodle-dooing outside. Skinny dogs wander around too, and the other day I saw a little lizard bravely leap past me and land safely on the pavement. Who knew?

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Here are some videos:



Where Magellan actually landed in the bay:



The Catholic Church is huge here and every village has its own. In one village, I believe it was in Inarajan, we entered one. The area, besides this cathedral, is falling apart. It sits below the flood line, so when hurricanes come in, the town is flooded. Sadly, this has left many of the former houses and stores in disrepair. Here are some pictures of the church. I wish I had taken some of the rest of the village as well.

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This sunday is Corpus Christi (the Body of Christ), and there will be big feasts held and people will pray in front of... well, I'll tell you when I see it. Last Sunday, I attended Church with my relatives. It's been a long time since I have visited a service, let alone a Catholic one. It was sort of nice. I, of course, didn't take part in Communion, but here are some pictures of it.

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This church was one of the first buildings constructed after the Japanese defeat in World War II. The village of Agana Heights came together to build it. This includes my great Aunt's family.

The Church continues to be highly important on Guam. On this hill we passed while driving along the coast you can see crosses. Every Easter they march up it, replaying Jesus' sacrifice.

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Statues and images of Christ and Mary (Our Lady of Fátima) are everywhere around the island. Check out this graveyard we visited (I can't remember which area, but it was around Merizo-Inarajan-Talofofo region). Jesus and Mary all over the place!

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And another video:



My uncle told me an interesting story while in Inarajan. Apparently a famous Father was killed in this village by the Japanese. Where the bullet hole hit so many years ago, the new tenant had strung a telephone cord through. What a literal representation of birth and renewal--Jesus' metaphor is in that hole and no one sees it.

Anyway, I will try to continue these blog entries as the summer progresses. I apologize to any Guamanians if I got some of the names and locations wrong. I am trying to do my best here, but I shall probably make mistakes along the way.

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